An Englishman in Turkey . I can always find something else to do: ride the bike, play the piano, chop wood, eat, drink, irritate, fascinate or amuse Special K, stare vacantly in to space and so on. And now the internet has made a fulltime profession out of work avoidance. There is always another linkto follow(but not that one haha).
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Fact is, most things are preferable to concentrated mental effort. When did you last do it?
Which is why it has been a long time since I posted. But I have felt the sl. Also today is the first truly dull day in a month; clouds swirling around the house, intermittent rain forecast for the whole day and I have to await a delivery of wood.
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Seat duly applied. In my defense I could also point to an uncomfortable dislocation between the pleasantly mundane nature of everyday life here in our Mediterranean resort and the tempestuous dramas swirling around us; the thousands of refugees in flimsy craft battling on the seas washing our shore, drawn like moths to the guttering candle that is Europe, Land of Milk and Honey. Then too the nightmare war zone that Kurdish regions of Turkey, especially in and around Diyarbak. Anomalies abound as America lines up with Russia against its NATO partner Turkey, whose president seems hellbound on taking on the Russian Bear, as if it does not have enough on its plate. All of which makes it difficult to write a post about life here that is entertaining (what do you mean you did not realise?) without appearing fatuous.
Actually because we are only a 2. Greek island of Kastellorizo, the plight of refugees has a resonance here too. Many expat folk from Ka. Until recently volunteers were the only show in town as the UN and major NGOs had not been involved. It is easy to forget that the Greek islanders are victims of the refugee crisis too, as their winter population of a couple of hundred or so sees 3 times that number of migrants and refugees arriving weekly. With the tourist season a few weeks away the local administration has started playing hardball, evicting everybody from the temporary sleeping quarters. A week later the clothing distribution centre funded and run by charitable efforts from Ka.
An unlucky coincidence? Well we shall await an official view but I know which way the balance of probability is pointing. If that proves to be the case, it is an angry, futile and malign act but the underlying despair of locals is genuine enough.
But this is the Near/Middle East not Worthing. When shit happens it tends to take the toilet with it.
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I have been been away for a couple of chaps. We recently spent a couple of days in Izmir doing mad stuff like a chamber concert by the State Opera Company in the municipal concert hall. Woooah! Izmir was Smyrna in Ottoman days, a polyglot port city peopled by Turks, Jews, Armenians and Franks in large numbers but with the majority group being of Greek origin. It was thus ceded to the Greeks by the Great Powers at the end of the First World War but went up in flames when the victorious Turkish Nationalist army under Mustafa Kemal marched in after four more years of war.
If you have the time watch this 1. British Path. It is awesome and horribly compelling.
When I am in Izmir I am always reminded that Turkey is something of a tinder box even if there are periods of calm. Whilst on the subject of chaps? Well we decided to go and see the Picasso Exhibition but one of us (no names) needed a box of shotgun cartridges and various other bits so nipped in to a gun shop en route. Twenty minutes later we go in to the town hall! Can I see inside your bag, Sir?! Carrying live ammunition around?
Just do not disrespect the President. Ba? What else? Well the tourist season will soon be upon us although with a whimper rather than a bang it would appear. Bookings are horribly down and there are a lot of anxious business people wondering what sort of a living they are going to make this season. Not the time to open a new restaurant then so no surprise that . S is my good friend who always supported our annual charity swim when he was managing Fener Caf.
The proposed name is Pera, the old Ottoman name for Beyo. Pera was the fashionable centre of European Istanbul with, at its heart, the Grande Rue de Pera, renamed Istiklal Caddesi after the republican revolution. The Pera Palace was the final destination for many travellers on the Orient Express and much frequented by Agatha Christie herself along with Ernest Hemingway, and other literary and fashionable types. Good wines (featuring indigenous grapes which are hugely undiscovered and undervalued), beers and spirits will be complemented by great food especially small mezze dishes, similar to tapas. And importantly it will have a buzzy, intimate atmosphere (unless it is empty of course).
The street is one of the few streets in Kalkan which has a strong sense of its history and potentially bags of style. Botanik Garden bar is at one end along with the White House pansyon and now recent arrivals Paul and Helen have opened boutique newcomer Old Town Hotel opposite. The harbour and old town are the jewels in Kalkan.
Turkey does not have a good track record in this regard. As an alternative to the harbour, this narrow cobbled street overhung by pretty wooden balconies and . It is true that it is not in the mould of the worst of mass tourism resorts BUT big screen football, all day breakfasts, large amounts of tattooed flesh on display in shops and restaurants etc. I have no gripe with a little of that (apart from the displays of flesh off the beach) but Kalkan needs to be promoting cultural, gastronomic and activity tourism.
It has all the assets but with bookings down by 8. It needs vision and direction. So I am right behind anybody who is risking their money in new ventures right now. The Pera will have a big screen and it may show the odd game but it may also show late night performances of classic films, opera and iconic performances (P. In winter it has ambitions to be a cultural and social hub for Turkish and expat locals. However, it will require a surge of creativity, talent, energy and boldness from the business community and support from those who would and do visit.
It needs to reach out beyond its narrow base of British fans so that it has a broader visitor base for the future. If Britain coughs Kalkan catchs a cold and that ain.